Paving

The total cost of paving depends on various factors, including the type of paving material, the surface area, the load (e.g. driveway or patio), the subsoil, the required groundwork and the finish. Below you will find a detailed cost breakdown.

1. Guideline prices per type of paving (material + placement)

Including labor, excluding VAT and groundwork

2. Additional costs per component

3. Example calculation – 30 m² driveway with concrete pavers

Total excl. VAT | € 2,680 |

Total incl. VAT (21%) | € 3,242.80 |

4. Important Price determinants

• Surface area: the larger the project, the lower the price per m² (due to economies of scale).
• Complexity of the laying pattern: random pattern or herringbone pattern requires more labor.
• Accessibility of the location: small gardens or limited passages increase labor costs.
• Material choice: baked clinkers and natural stone are considerably more expensive than standard concrete tiles.
• Drainage and height differences: Additional costs may arise in the event of difficult drainage or leveling work.

Laying paving proceeds in a number of logical and technically necessary steps. A well-executed paving requires expertise, careful preparation and qualitative execution. The following phases form the standard working method for paving work:

1. Inventory and preparation

• Recording of the site and discussion of wishes (choice of material, pattern, drainage, function)
• Measuring the surface and determining height differences
• Checking the subsoil (soil type, stability, drainage)
• Possibly applying for permits or coordination with utility companies

2. Earthworks and excavation

• Removing old paving, vegetation or obstacles
• Excavating the subsoil to the required depth (depending on intended use)
• Applying and leveling the correct underlay (e.g. mixed granulate or rubble)

3. Applying the foundation

• Vibrating and compacting the sublayer in layers (for load-bearing capacity and stability)
• Closing with a leveling layer of paving sand or stabilisé (with or without cement)
• Careful drainage and application of slope (usually 1 to 2%)

4. Laying the Pavement

• Laying the stones or tiles in the chosen pattern (half-brick, herringbone, wild bond, etc.)
• Cutting and fitting edges, corners and connections
• Checking the laying pattern and finishing the joints

5. Vibrating and Sweeping

• Sweeping the pavement with crushed sand or jointing sand
• Vibrating with a vibrating plate with rubber mat to prevent damage
• Repeated sweeping and vibrating for stability and filling the joints

6. Finishing and Completion

• Installation of edge restraints, edge trim, or curves
• Checking slope and drainage
• Completion with aftercare advice (e.g., on maintenance or re-sweeping after some time)

Optional work

• Installation of infiltration crates, drainage, or rainwater drainage
• Lighting, cabling, or preparations for garden structures
• Assembly of property boundaries, planters, or other elements

Good preparation is essential for durable and high-quality paving. In this phase, all necessary measures are taken to make the site suitable for the construction of pavements. Careful preparation prevents problems in later phases, such as subsidence, poor drainage, or dimensional errors.

Purpose of the preparation phase

• Creating a stable, flat, and accessible working base
• Assessing site conditions and drainage possibilities
• Preventing failure costs and repair work

Steps in the preparation phase

1. Survey and measurement of the work area
The site is surveyed and assessed for dimensions, height differences, existing paving, vegetation, and obstacles. Height levels are determined and recorded, often using a spirit level, laser, or GPS.

2. Discussing design and material selection
In consultation with the client, the laying plan, the type of paving, the edge finishes, and any facilities (such as gullies, cables, lighting) are confirmed. The work plan is drawn up based on this.

3. Setting out reference lines
Auxiliary lines and stakes are placed for the future location of curbs, paving, and height differences. This is essential for a tight and symmetrical execution of the paving work.

4. Removal of existing elements
Any old paving, planting, debris or above-ground obstacles will be removed. If necessary, cables, pipes and roots are exposed and assessed for conflict with the new design.

5. Soil investigation (if required)
For larger projects or uncertain soil conditions, a sounding or soil investigation is carried out to determine the load-bearing capacity of the subsoil. This is decisive for the construction of the foundation.

6. Preparation drainage and facilities
Before starting earthworks, drainage points (gullies, linear drains), empty pipes or conduits are prepared. This prevents that digging has to be done again later in the work.

Importance of a good preparation

• Increases efficiency in later work phases
• Reduces the chance of delays or extra costs
• Lays the foundation for a stable, flat and visually attractive pavement
• Guarantees correct drainage and connection to surrounding elements

Note:
Depending on the project (private, commercial, public space), the preparation may vary in scope and complexity. For large projects, this phase is often formally documented in an implementation plan, including measurement report, work sequence and material lists.

Applying a stable and well-compacted subbase is crucial for the lifespan and quality of any paving. A solid foundation prevents subsidence, uneven paving, and drainage problems. The method and structure depend on the load (e.g., garden path vs. driveway) and the subsoil (sandy soil, clay, peat, etc.).

Steps in applying the subbase:

1. Excavate to the correct depth
Depending on the type of paving, the soil is excavated mechanically or manually to the required depth. For lightly loaded paving (such as a terrace), 20–30 cm is usually sufficient. For heavily loaded applications such as driveways, a depth of 40–60 cm is desired.

2. Applying foundation material
A layer of foundation material is applied to the excavated subsoil, usually:

• Mixed granulate (broken rubble) – commonly used for driveways, parking lots or heavy traffic.
• Sand bed (street or fill sand) – suitable for lightly loaded paving.
• Stabilisé (sand-cement mixture) – optional for terraces or places with high pressure or water load.

The layer is applied per 10–15 cm and compacted with a vibrating plate or roller to create a firm and stable whole.

3. Leveling and Height Adjustment
The foundation is carefully leveled and brought to the correct height, with the correct slope (usually 1 to 2%) for water drainage. A laser or spirit level is used for optimal accuracy if necessary.

4. Application of the sand bed (if applicable)
A layer of paving sand of approximately 3–5 cm is applied on top of the compacted foundation material. This layer is finished smoothly with a screed and possibly re-compacted. This forms the bedding in which the paving is laid.

5. Inspection and preparation for paving
Before paving, it is checked whether:

• The subsoil is sufficiently compacted
• The slope and height are correct everywhere
• All pipes and facilities (e.g. electricity or drainage) are present

Importance of a good foundation
A well-applied foundation ensures:

• Stability and load-bearing capacity of the paving
• Even water drainage (no puddles or accumulation)
• Reduction of maintenance and repaving in the long term
• Longer lifespan of both decorative and functional paving

The actual laying of the paving – also called paving – forms the core of the paving project. In this phase the chosen paving materials are applied to the prepared surface according to the desired laying pattern. Accuracy, craftsmanship and the right technique are essential for a durable and stable end result.

Conditions for correct execution

Before paving, the surface must be fully prepared:

• The foundation must be installed, compacted and leveled.
• The slope (slope for water drainage) must be applied correctly, usually 1 to 2%.
• The sand bed or stabilization layer must be tightly finished and at the correct height.

Method for paving

1. Align and set out
With the help of ropes or a laser, the first lines of the laying pattern are set out. This ensures a tight and straight starting point, crucial for the further course of the paving work.

2. Laying the paving
The stones, tiles or pavers are laid by hand or machine (for large projects) in the chosen pattern, such as half-brick, herringbone or random pattern. Attention is paid to:

• Equal joint width
• Height connection with surrounding elements (curbs, walls, manholes)
• Precise connection between the stones

3. Fitting and sawing
Edges, corners and recesses are made to measure with a stone saw or cutter. This is done in a safe and neat manner, with minimal dust formation and good finishing of the sawed surfaces.

4. Checking and adjustment
During laying, constant checks are made on flatness, connection and alignment. Small irregularities are corrected immediately.

Points of attention

• When using tiles or natural stone, care must be taken with the laying sequence, color gradient and fragility.
• In case of frost or precipitation, paving is postponed to prevent subsidence or adhesion problems.
• For heavily loaded surfaces (such as driveways), extra reinforcement may be required, such as edge restraints or a stabilization layer.

Completion of paving

After laying, the finishing follows: grouting the joints, vibrating the whole (with rubber mat for fragile stones), and a final check. If necessary, corrections are made before the work is delivered.

Result of good paving:

• Tight, flat paving without open joints or subsidence
• Optimal slope and water drainage
• Long lifespan with minimal maintenance costs
• Aesthetically suitable for the environment and intended use

Finishing paving is an essential stage in which the paving is fixed, stabilized and finished. Grouting – also known as sweeping or jointing – ensures that the stones stay in place, subsidence is prevented and the lifespan of the paving is extended.

What is Grouting?

Grouting is the process of filling the paving with fine jointing material, usually sand or crushed sand, which is carefully swept into the joints between the stones. In specific applications, joint mortar or stabilizer can also be used, depending on load, aesthetics or water drainage.

Steps in finishing and grouting:

1. Sweeping in jointing material
After laying the paving, the surface is completely swept dry with clean and dry:

• Paving sand – standard for garden paths and terraces.
• Crushed sand – angular sand that stays in place better in joints, recommended for driveways and parking spaces.
• Grouting mortar or polymer sand – for decorative or heavily loaded applications where joint strength is important.

The sand is carefully swept into all the joints with a broom.

2. Vibrating the Pavement
Once the joints are filled, the pavement is vibrated with a vibrating plate (equipped with a rubber mat to prevent damage to the stones). This allows the stones to settle permanently in place and the joints to be further filled.

3. Repeated Sweeping
After vibrating, sand is again distributed over the pavement and washed in, so that all joints are completely filled. If necessary, this process is repeated several times.

4. Cleaning and Finishing
The remaining sand is removed from the surface. If desired, the pavement can be lightly rinsed (only with suitable sand and dry weather). The edges and connections are checked and refilled if necessary.

Importance of Good Washing In

A correct finish by washing in ensures:

• Anchoring of the pavement, less chance of shifting or gaps
• Even pressure distribution and better load-bearing capacity
• Protection against weed growth and water infiltration
• Increased durability and reduced maintenance

Important points:

• The paving must be completely dry before sweeping in.
• A second filling round may be necessary after a few weeks if the joints have subsided.
• Fine jointing sand or special jointing compound is used for decorative paving or ceramic tiles.

When choosing paving, the type of material determines the appearance, function and durability of the project. Depending on the application – garden path, terrace, driveway, company premises, yard paving – there are various types of paving available, each with their own advantages and disadvantages.

1. Concrete pavers

• Description: Sleek rectangular stones made of concrete, available in various colors, sizes and finishes.
• Advantages: Budget-friendly, quick to process, good load-bearing, wide choice of colors.
• Application: Driveways, garden paths, terraces, parking spaces.
• Attention point: Concrete may slightly discolor or show efflorescence over time.

2. Baked paving stones (clay)

• Description: Sustainable pavers baked from river clay, with a natural color and high wear resistance.
• Advantages: Very long lifespan, colorfast, classic appearance, low maintenance.
• Application: Gardens, yard paving, monumental environments, inner-city projects.
• Note: Slightly higher cost price and more labor-intensive processing.

3. Decorative tiles (concrete or ceramic)

• Description: Flat tiles in large formats (30x30 to 60x60 cm or larger), with or without coating or structure.
• Advantages: Luxurious appearance, sleek and modern design, smooth or natural stone look possible.
• Application: Terraces, walkways, indoor gardens, roof terraces.
• Note: Require a stable surface; susceptible to scratches or stains in lighter variants.

4. Natural stone paving

• Description: Tiles or pavers made of real natural stone, such as basalt, granite, slate or bluestone.
• Advantages: Very strong, exclusive appearance, unique color and pattern variation.
• Application: Luxury terraces, driveways, courtyards, representative outdoor spaces.
• Point of attention: More expensive to purchase and process, requires specialist installation.

5. Gravel and chippings

• Description: Loose stone fraction (round or broken) in various colors and sizes.
• Advantages: Water-permeable, affordable, easy to apply.
• Application: Driveways, garden paths, parking spaces, ornamental gardens.
• Point of attention: Can move with intensive use; the use of gravel mats is recommended.

6. Cobblestones / tumbled stones

• Description: Concrete stones with an aged or tumbled appearance, for a rustic or rural look.
• Advantages: Classic and timeless, resistant to load, suitable for curves and patterns.
• Application: Driveways, property boundaries, garden paths.
• Note: Slightly porous, susceptible to algae and moss formation without maintenance.

7. Honeycomb or Grass Concrete Tiles

• Description: Concrete slabs with an open structure for grass growth or water infiltration.
• Advantages: Water-permeable, environmentally friendly, strengthens without complete hardening.
• Application: Parking spaces, firebreaks, slope stabilization, green projects.
• Note: Less suitable for representative ornamental paving.

Choice advice:
The right paving depends on the following factors:

• Load capacity: light pedestrian load versus car or truck traffic.
• Aesthetics: modern, rural, classic or industrial.
• Maintenance: porous or smooth surfaces require different levels of maintenance.
• Drainage: open paving or closed system with slope.

The paving pattern – or the pattern in which the paving is laid – plays an important role in the appearance, stability and lifespan of the pavement. The choice of a particular pattern depends on the type of paving, the load (e.g. driveway vs. patio), and the desired visual style.

1. Stretcher bond

• Description: Each next row of stones is offset by half a stone compared to the previous row.
• Advantages: Strong, easy to lay, calm appearance.
• Application: Patios, walkways, driveways.
• Features: Functional, timeless and stable. Very suitable for rectangular concrete pavers.

2. Herringbone pattern

• Description: Stones are laid at an angle of 45° or 90° in a V-pattern.
• Advantages: Very strong construction, resistant to lateral forces.
• Application: Driveways, parking spaces, heavily loaded surfaces.
• Characteristics: Technically strong, classic appearance, more intensive laying.

3. Herringbone pattern

• Description: Variants of herringbone pattern where an L-pattern is formed each time.
• Advantages: Decorative, good stability.
• Application: Ornamental paving, yards, courtyards.
• Characteristics: Less common, requires careful execution.

4. Random pattern

• Description: Paving in various sizes is laid seemingly randomly, according to a fixed pattern.
• Advantages: Ornate, natural look, little repetition.
• Application: Terraces, gardens, squares.
• Characteristics: Creative, requires a prior laying plan or laying pattern for correct distribution.

5. Block Pattern (Line Pattern)

• Description: Stones are laid in rows of equal length and width, without staggering.
• Advantages: Sleek and modern, easy to lay.
• Application: Modern gardens, terraces, roof terraces.
• Characteristics: Less suitable for heavy traffic; visually sleek but technically slightly less strong.

6. Elbow-Herringbone Combination

• Description: Elegant bond in which parts of elbow and twill are combined.
• Advantages: Decorative and technically stable.
• Application: Yard paving, ornamental paving in courtyards or squares.
• Characteristics: Specialist work, often used in historicizing or urban environments.

7. Mill surface or fan shape

• Description: Paving is laid in a round or fan structure.
• Advantages: Very elegant and classic, ideal for round spaces.
• Application: Historic locations, city squares, ornamental gardens.
• Characteristics: Labor-intensive, often requires baked clinkers and specialist expertise.

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Choice advice per application:

Application	Recommended pattern(s)
Terrace	Stretcher bond, random bond, block pattern
Driveway	Herringbone pattern, stretcher bond, 45 degree herringbone
Parking space	Herringbone pattern, elbow bond
Ornamental garden	Random pattern, windmill pattern, elbow-herringbone
Modern garden	Block pattern, large-format random pattern
Yard paving	Elbow, baked clinkers in herringbone

 

When laying paving, edging curbs and palisades are essential elements for ensuring the stability, durability, and neat finish of the paving. They prevent the paving from sinking, shifting, or spreading under load or weather influences. Additionally, they contribute to the aesthetics and functional layout of the outdoor space.

Edging Stones

Description:
Edging stones – also called kerbstones – are elongated concrete curbs placed along the edges of paving. They provide lateral support and prevent stones from shifting or sinking due to use or load.

Application:

• Patios, garden paths, and driveways
• Boundaries and separation between paving and borders
• Heavily trafficked pavements (such as parking lots)

Features:

• Available in various heights (e.g., 5x15 cm, 8x20 cm, 10x25 cm)
• Placed in stabilized sand or concrete mortar for extra stability
• Can be laid straight or in curves with special fittings

Advantages:

• Prevents paving from shifting or sinking
• Increases the lifespan of paving
• Ensures straight edges and a neat finish

Points to consider:

• Depth and stability of placement are crucial; at least 2/3 of the tire must be buried
• For driveways or heavy loads, placement in concrete is recommended

Palisades

Description:
Palisades are vertical elements made of concrete, natural stone, or plastic, used as edging or height elements. They are employed to create level differences, stairs, raised borders, and functional separations.

Application:

• Height differences in gardens or terraces
• Steps, planters, or property boundaries
• Curves and curved lines in garden designs

Characteristics:

• Available in round or rectangular shape
• Available in different heights (20 to 80 cm or more)
• Available in various colors, structures, and finishes

Advantages:

• Functional and decorative
• Suitable for creative garden and terrain layouts
• Provides firm support for embankments or retaining structures

Points to consider:

• Requires a stable foundation, often with a stabilizing layer or concrete
• With high loads (e.g. retaining walls), the structure must be coordinated with soil pressure

Summary of advice:

A well-laid pavement is more than just a beautiful end result. It requires careful preparation, material selection and professional execution. Below you will find valuable tips that contribute to a sustainable and trouble-free paving project.

1. Choose the right material for the right use

• Use concrete pavers or herringbone pattern for driveways and heavily loaded surfaces due to their load-bearing capacity.
• Choose decorative tiles or natural stone for terraces and ornamental gardens where appearance is important.
• Use gravel or grit in places where water permeability and informal appearance are desired.

2. Pay attention to a stable foundation

• A solid and well-compacted base layer prevents subsidence and uneven tiles.
• For driveways, a foundation layer of at least 25 cm of broken rubble or mixed granulate is recommended.
• Lightly loaded paving, such as garden paths, can suffice with a good sand bed.

3. Always work with a slope

• Ensure a slope of approximately 1 to 2% to drain rainwater away from the house or building.
• Never lay paving completely flat: standing water causes damage and pollution.

4. Use edge restraints

• Edge restraints prevent the paving from sliding apart.
• They extend the life of the paving and provide a clean edge finish.

5. Choose a suitable laying pattern

• Stretcher bond and herringbone bond are technically strong and suitable for functional use.
• Random bond and block bond give an elegant or modern look.
• Preferably have an experienced paver lay out the pattern for a clean final image.

6. Fitting and sawing determines the finish

• Make sure corners and edges are neatly sawn to size with a stone saw.
• Sloppy sawing or excessively large joints significantly reduce the quality of the streetscape.

7. Don't skip sweeping and vibrating

• After laying, the paving must be washed in with crushed sand and vibrated.
• This prevents shifting, stabilizes the paving and prevents weed growth between the joints.

8. Consider drainage and cables

• Plan ahead for drains, rainwater pits, lighting and any pipes.
• Bury empty conduit pipes in advance for future cabling or installations.

9. Maintenance extends lifespan

• Keep paving clean of leaves, weeds and moss to prevent slipperiness and discoloration.
• Repair sagging or loose stones in a timely manner to prevent further damage.

10. Work with a laying plan or professional

• Especially with larger surfaces or complex patterns, a laying plan prevents errors and sawing loss.
• For heavily loaded applications or exclusive paving, craftsmanship is essential.